Ansó (Spain) traditional dress
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
- CERES: Digital Network of Spanish Museum Collections. Cataloguing files on costumes from Ansó at Museo de Zaragoza, Museo de Huesca, Museo Sorolla and Museo de Traje CIPE (Madrid). Available at: http://ceres.mcu.es/pages/Main
- Gorría Ipas, Antonio Jesús (2017): El traje tradicional del Valle de Ansó (The traditional costume of the Ansó Valley). Ansó: Grafo.
- Gusano Galindo, Elena (2012): “Los trajes del Valle de Ansó”. In: Guarc Sancho, Elena / Latas Alegre, Dabí (coords.) (2012): Indumentaria tradicional aragonesa. Apuntes para una historia. Zaragoza: Prames Ediciones, pp. 54-63.
- Naya Franco, Carolina (2017): Joyas y alhajas del Alto Aragón: esmaltes y piedras preciosas de ajuares y tesoros históricos. Huesca: Instituto de Estudios Altoaragoneses.
- Seco Serra, Irene (2008): “Trajes seculares. El traje femenino de Ansó y la creación de modelos de indumentaria popular”. In: Indumenta. Museo del Traje CIPE Magazine, nº 1, Madrid, pp. 85-104.
“Street bride” and “Festive” woman’s dress of Ansó:
Within the diversity of traditional costumes of the Valley of Ansó (Huesca, Spain), we have chosen the “street bride” or “festive” woman’s dress as the protagonist for the STITCH Project because it is one of the most characteristic traditional costumes. Its garments are of very ancient origins dating back to the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
When a bride got married in Ansó, for the ceremony she wore the “church wedding dress“, with religious connotations, more linked to modesty and respect. After the ceremony, outside the church, she would wear the “street wedding dress” which is the one we see here. It is was dress that she would continue to wear for the rest of her life for festivities and special ceremonies.
The most outstanding garment of this costume is the so-called “basquiña” or smock, a kind of high-waisted green wool pleated one piece dress. Under the heavy basquiña the the shirt was worn, with a starched and pleated collar called “gorguera” of Renaissance origin.
The sleeves of the shirt were puffed out thanks to the effect obtained when they were covered with “oversleeves” (as mangas) of dark blue cloth, richly ornamented. These “oversleeves” were joined at the back with a ribbon of rich silk.
Another remarkable element is the large cockade on the chest, called “escarapela“. On it the best jewels (as platas) are placed. The ensemble was completed with earrings to match the “sofocante“, a choker with jewel of several bodies in the form of a bow or butterfly.
As for the headdress, the woman wore the so-called “churros” hairstyle. A crown-shaped hairstyle characteristic of Ansó, also of Renaissance origin.
Explore the details of the dress in 3D!
ANSÓ – Silk Ribbon (“a trenzadera”)
NAME: Silk Ribbon ("a trenzadera") DESCRIPTION: this ribbon is called "trenzadera", and it is used to wrap the churros with the woman's natural hair, giving rise to the classic "churros hairstyle" of the Ansó Region. The color of the braid also had its meaning. Young...
ANSÓ – Churros
NAME: Churros (‘os churros’) DESCRIPTION:Pair of black female churros (hairpiece) used for the classic "churros hairstyle" of the women of Ansó. The "churros hairstyle" owes its name to this element, it is a hairpiece that is attached to the hair by winding it with...
ANSÓ – Shoes
NAME: Shoes DESCRIPTION: Pair of women's flat shoes in black leather, with tongue, laces and rounded toe cap. The buckle features a series of eyelets with black crisscrossed cotton laces that tie the shoes. The sole is leather, attached to a rubber heel. It's the most...
ANSÓ – Petticoat (as inaguas)
NAME: Petticoat (as inaguas) DESCRIPTION: This petticoat is a garment to be worn under the skirt. Made in cotton with striped print in different shades of blue, red and dark grey. The skirt is attached to the waist by a small gathering. It has two black cotton braids...
ANSÓ – Scapular
NAME: scapular DESCRIPTION: the scapular is part of the adornments worn by women, it is a protective element. It is also worn by girls when they wear the saigüelo colorau (red smock) and in the past it was even hung on cradles to protect children. It consists of two...
ANSÓ – Earrings
NAME: Earrings DESCRIPTION: Pair of female girandole earrings in gilded metal. They are composed of five bodies and are articulated as follows: button at the top (where the attachment hook to the earlobe begins), a bow as the central part from which three almonds or...
ANSÓ – Sofocante
NAME: Sofocante (Choker) DESCRIPTION:The sofocante is one of the most eye-catching and elegant jewels of the women's clothing from Ansó. It is a silver or copper jewel, generally over-gilded, that hangs from the neck with a red silk or velvet ribbon as a choker. The...
ANSÓ – Reliquary
NAME: Reliquary DESCRIPTION: This type of medallion is called "relicarios" (reliquary), although they do not contain any kind of relic inside. It is placed in the center of the cockade as a breast rose along with the other "platas".This reliquary, in particular, is...
ANSÓ – Crucifix
NAME: crucifix DESCRIPTION:A large crucifix (13.5 cm high) made of silver openwork filigree. This piece is placed in the center of the cockade and is part of the set of jewels and adornments called "as platas".The arms of the cross are topped with gilled balls formed...
ANSÓ – Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar
NAME: Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar DESCRIPTION: These are two small sculptures of the Virgin of the Pilar as a pendant but larger than a normal pendant (12 cm high and 4 cm wide) to be placed on both sides of the "escarapela" (cockade). Both are twins and of...
ANSÓ – Chain
NAME: chain DESCRIPTION: feminine chain of 2 meters long in golden metal. It has open links in the shape of a folded eight in the center. These links, when joined together, give the chain a triangular shape. The jewels ("as platas") of the rosette, for security and to...
ANSÓ – Escarapela
NAME: Escarapela (Cockade) with "as platas": Virgin of The Pilar (x2), reliquary and crucifix (joined by a chain) DESCRIPTION:the "escarapela" is the ornamental element of circular or rosette shape that is placed on the chest, it is composed of numerous silk ribbons...
ANSÓ – Sleeves
NAME: “As mangas” (oversleeves) y la cinta (ribbon). DESCRIPTION: We are faced with two independent pieces, on the one hand "As mangas" (oversleeve) and, on the other, the silk ribbon. The ones we see here are elegant pieces designed for the festive dress. As the...
ANSÓ – Shirt
NAME: Shirt DESCRIPTION: The shirt, like many other shirts of the traditional costumes, is made in linen, specifically, homespun linen taffeta, ecru (white), and is much longer than a current shirt, reaching almost to the knees. It is one of the most outstanding...
ANSÓ – Basquiña
NAME: Basquiña DESCRIPTION: basquiña smock in black and green wool cloth, with a small tight-fitting body, cut at the bottom of the chest and edged in yellow and red. The word basquiña designates a skirt in historical clothing; however, the Pyrenean villages of Hecho...
Film on Ansó dress:
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