ANSÓ – Escarapela
NAME: Escarapela (Cockade) with “as platas”: Virgin of The Pilar (x2), reliquary and crucifix (joined by a chain)
DESCRIPTION:the “escarapela” is the ornamental element of circular or rosette shape that is placed on the chest, it is composed of numerous silk ribbons of various colors. On the cockade are placed “as platas“, that is to say, jewels like crucifixes, reliquaries, Virgins of the Pilar, etc. All this adornment, like the one we see here, is known as bride’s silver or cofradesa’s silver. It presents a large filigree cross with Christ in the center; two gilded sculptures of the Virgin of the Pilar that are on both sides of the chest and a metal reliquary as a chest rose in the center of the composition. All this set of adornments and jewels are complemented with the scapular hanging from the right shoulder, the earrings and the choker-like necklace all descriptions of these pieces are accessible in this catalog. Both the silk ribbons and the “as platas” are elements of the Ansotan costume dating from the mid 18th century.
The cockade that we see here is composed of a cotton base (it can be seen on the back) on which the silk ribbons are sewn in the form of an eight-pointed bow. In this case we are in front of a cockade with a bow of four bodies based on 4 silk ribbons. The silk ribbons are of yellow, green, red and pale pink color, of them it emphasizes its brocade decoration based on vegetable and floral motifs. On it we find arranged a series of jewels (as platas) each piece is briefly described in this catalog.
DIMENSIONS: height: 34cm. width: 27cm
MATERIAL: silk and cotton
TECHNIQUE: taffeta, brocade and satin
DATATION: 19th Century
PLACE OF PROVENANCE: Ansó, Jacetania Region (Huesca – Spain).
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ANSÓ – Silk Ribbon (“a trenzadera”)
NAME: Silk Ribbon ("a trenzadera") DESCRIPTION: this ribbon is called "trenzadera", and it is used to wrap the churros with the woman's natural hair, giving rise to the classic "churros hairstyle" of the Ansó Region. The color of the braid also had its meaning. Young...
ANSÓ – Churros
NAME: Churros (‘os churros’) DESCRIPTION:Pair of black female churros (hairpiece) used for the classic "churros hairstyle" of the women of Ansó. The "churros hairstyle" owes its name to this element, it is a hairpiece that is attached to the hair by winding it with...
ANSÓ – Shoes
NAME: Shoes DESCRIPTION: Pair of women's flat shoes in black leather, with tongue, laces and rounded toe cap. The buckle features a series of eyelets with black crisscrossed cotton laces that tie the shoes. The sole is leather, attached to a rubber heel. It's the most...
ANSÓ – Petticoat (as inaguas)
NAME: Petticoat (as inaguas) DESCRIPTION: This petticoat is a garment to be worn under the skirt. Made in cotton with striped print in different shades of blue, red and dark grey. The skirt is attached to the waist by a small gathering. It has two black cotton braids...
ANSÓ – Scapular
NAME: scapular DESCRIPTION: the scapular is part of the adornments worn by women, it is a protective element. It is also worn by girls when they wear the saigüelo colorau (red smock) and in the past it was even hung on cradles to protect children. It consists of two...
ANSÓ – Earrings
NAME: Earrings DESCRIPTION: Pair of female girandole earrings in gilded metal. They are composed of five bodies and are articulated as follows: button at the top (where the attachment hook to the earlobe begins), a bow as the central part from which three almonds or...
ANSÓ – Sofocante
NAME: Sofocante (Choker) DESCRIPTION:The sofocante is one of the most eye-catching and elegant jewels of the women's clothing from Ansó. It is a silver or copper jewel, generally over-gilded, that hangs from the neck with a red silk or velvet ribbon as a choker. The...
ANSÓ – Reliquary
NAME: Reliquary DESCRIPTION: This type of medallion is called "relicarios" (reliquary), although they do not contain any kind of relic inside. It is placed in the center of the cockade as a breast rose along with the other "platas".This reliquary, in particular, is...
ANSÓ – Crucifix
NAME: crucifix DESCRIPTION:A large crucifix (13.5 cm high) made of silver openwork filigree. This piece is placed in the center of the cockade and is part of the set of jewels and adornments called "as platas".The arms of the cross are topped with gilled balls formed...
ANSÓ – Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar
NAME: Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar DESCRIPTION: These are two small sculptures of the Virgin of the Pilar as a pendant but larger than a normal pendant (12 cm high and 4 cm wide) to be placed on both sides of the "escarapela" (cockade). Both are twins and of...
ANSÓ – Chain
NAME: chain DESCRIPTION: feminine chain of 2 meters long in golden metal. It has open links in the shape of a folded eight in the center. These links, when joined together, give the chain a triangular shape. The jewels ("as platas") of the rosette, for security and to...
ANSÓ – Sleeves
NAME: “As mangas” (oversleeves) y la cinta (ribbon). DESCRIPTION: We are faced with two independent pieces, on the one hand "As mangas" (oversleeve) and, on the other, the silk ribbon. The ones we see here are elegant pieces designed for the festive dress. As the...
ANSÓ – Shirt
NAME: Shirt DESCRIPTION: The shirt, like many other shirts of the traditional costumes, is made in linen, specifically, homespun linen taffeta, ecru (white), and is much longer than a current shirt, reaching almost to the knees. It is one of the most outstanding...
ANSÓ – Basquiña
NAME: Basquiña DESCRIPTION: basquiña smock in black and green wool cloth, with a small tight-fitting body, cut at the bottom of the chest and edged in yellow and red. The word basquiña designates a skirt in historical clothing; however, the Pyrenean villages of Hecho...