ANSÓ – Sleeves
NAME: “As mangas” (oversleeves) y la cinta (ribbon).
DESCRIPTION: We are faced with two independent pieces, on the one hand “As mangas” (oversleeve) and, on the other, the silk ribbon. The ones we see here are elegant pieces designed for the festive dress. As the basquiña had no sleeves, the “as mangas” (oversleeves) could insulate from the cold and protect the “mangotes” (lower sleeves and cuff) of the shirt, so as not to have to wash it often. This type of oversleeves were already used in the Italian Renaissance and also in some traditional costumes of the late 19th century. As for the ones we have here, they are two independent pieces called “mangas” (sleeves), made of navy-blue wool cloth. The upper part, the one closest to the elbow, is edged with red cloth. At lower sleeve, at the level of the cuffs, they are richly decorated with silk trimmings and embroidered with 3 cm jet crystals. The same jet crystal decoration runs linearly along the inside of the sleeves. The cuffs have an 8 cm opening that closes with a buttonhole and a metal cufflink button in the shape of a flower. On the cuff, just above the silk trimming and the application of jet crystals, there is a small embroidered work in yellow, red and green simulating some simple floral motifs. The inside of the cuff is lined with a 6 cm silk trimming.
Both sleeves are joined at the back by a 10 cm wide silk “ribbon” with a brocade decoration based on yellow plant motifs on a red background. This silk “ribbon” joining the sleeves used to be worn by the bride and also when the women wore the cofradía dress with the black saigüelo and white pique oversleeves. On other occasions the as mangas were usually joined at the back with the characteristic “cuerda” ansotana (rope). This rope was formed by the union of two wool bands of about 5 cm each. The color of the cuerda tells us about the situation of the woman who wears it: “de vivo” when it is woven in red and green and “de muerto” when it is woven in dark red and black (the woman would be a widow or would be in mourning for the death of a relative). Both colored pieces form a pattern in the form of a herringbone or skeleton (as it is reminiscent of a fish’s skeleton). The wool at the ends of the rope, at shoulder height, is gathered in what is called “os pilares” covered with yellow silk and from them hang long bangs that form a large tassel of about 15 cm.
The set of sleeves and ribbon we see here was reserved for the bride. It is a piece made with rich materials and with too much decoration to be used for everyday wear. It is convenient to differentiate “manguitos” (fabric oversleeves) from “as mangas” (oversleeves). The “manguitos” (fabric oversleeves) used to be worn with the everyday dress with the sole purpose of protecting the shirt. While the “as mangas” (oversleeves) were generally used for festive and church dresses.
DIMENSIONS: sleeves: 42 cm (height) x 14 cm (width). Belt: 70 cm (length) x 10 cm (width).
MATERIAL: wool, jet crystals, silk, metal.
TECHNIQUE: taffeta, brocade, trimmings.
DATATION: 19th Century
PLACE OF PROVENANCE: Ansó, Jacetania Region (Huesca – Spain).
Details gallery
Front
Back
Detail
Another view
Cuff detail
All the details
ANSÓ – Silk Ribbon (“a trenzadera”)
NAME: Silk Ribbon ("a trenzadera") DESCRIPTION: this ribbon is called "trenzadera", and it is used to wrap the churros with the woman's natural hair, giving rise to the classic "churros hairstyle" of the Ansó Region. The color of the braid also had its meaning. Young...
ANSÓ – Churros
NAME: Churros (‘os churros’) DESCRIPTION:Pair of black female churros (hairpiece) used for the classic "churros hairstyle" of the women of Ansó. The "churros hairstyle" owes its name to this element, it is a hairpiece that is attached to the hair by winding it with...
ANSÓ – Shoes
NAME: Shoes DESCRIPTION: Pair of women's flat shoes in black leather, with tongue, laces and rounded toe cap. The buckle features a series of eyelets with black crisscrossed cotton laces that tie the shoes. The sole is leather, attached to a rubber heel. It's the most...
ANSÓ – Petticoat (as inaguas)
NAME: Petticoat (as inaguas) DESCRIPTION: This petticoat is a garment to be worn under the skirt. Made in cotton with striped print in different shades of blue, red and dark grey. The skirt is attached to the waist by a small gathering. It has two black cotton braids...
ANSÓ – Scapular
NAME: scapular DESCRIPTION: the scapular is part of the adornments worn by women, it is a protective element. It is also worn by girls when they wear the saigüelo colorau (red smock) and in the past it was even hung on cradles to protect children. It consists of two...
ANSÓ – Earrings
NAME: Earrings DESCRIPTION: Pair of female girandole earrings in gilded metal. They are composed of five bodies and are articulated as follows: button at the top (where the attachment hook to the earlobe begins), a bow as the central part from which three almonds or...
ANSÓ – Sofocante
NAME: Sofocante (Choker) DESCRIPTION:The sofocante is one of the most eye-catching and elegant jewels of the women's clothing from Ansó. It is a silver or copper jewel, generally over-gilded, that hangs from the neck with a red silk or velvet ribbon as a choker. The...
ANSÓ – Reliquary
NAME: Reliquary DESCRIPTION: This type of medallion is called "relicarios" (reliquary), although they do not contain any kind of relic inside. It is placed in the center of the cockade as a breast rose along with the other "platas".This reliquary, in particular, is...
ANSÓ – Crucifix
NAME: crucifix DESCRIPTION:A large crucifix (13.5 cm high) made of silver openwork filigree. This piece is placed in the center of the cockade and is part of the set of jewels and adornments called "as platas".The arms of the cross are topped with gilled balls formed...
ANSÓ – Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar
NAME: Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar DESCRIPTION: These are two small sculptures of the Virgin of the Pilar as a pendant but larger than a normal pendant (12 cm high and 4 cm wide) to be placed on both sides of the "escarapela" (cockade). Both are twins and of...
ANSÓ – Chain
NAME: chain DESCRIPTION: feminine chain of 2 meters long in golden metal. It has open links in the shape of a folded eight in the center. These links, when joined together, give the chain a triangular shape. The jewels ("as platas") of the rosette, for security and to...
ANSÓ – Escarapela
NAME: Escarapela (Cockade) with "as platas": Virgin of The Pilar (x2), reliquary and crucifix (joined by a chain) DESCRIPTION:the "escarapela" is the ornamental element of circular or rosette shape that is placed on the chest, it is composed of numerous silk ribbons...
ANSÓ – Shirt
NAME: Shirt DESCRIPTION: The shirt, like many other shirts of the traditional costumes, is made in linen, specifically, homespun linen taffeta, ecru (white), and is much longer than a current shirt, reaching almost to the knees. It is one of the most outstanding...
ANSÓ – Basquiña
NAME: Basquiña DESCRIPTION: basquiña smock in black and green wool cloth, with a small tight-fitting body, cut at the bottom of the chest and edged in yellow and red. The word basquiña designates a skirt in historical clothing; however, the Pyrenean villages of Hecho...