ANSÓ – Shirt
NAME: Shirt
DESCRIPTION: The shirt, like many other shirts of the traditional costumes, is made in linen, specifically, homespun linen taffeta, ecru (white), and is much longer than a current shirt, reaching almost to the knees. It is one of the most outstanding pieces of the female costume together with the basquiña.
It consists of four parts: cuerpo (body), mangotes (sleeves), faldeta (skirt) and ruff (the collar, locally known as “gorguera“). Sometimes, the upper part of the shirt was made with better quality linen fabric (the parts that are visible) and the lower part (the skirt or faldeta), with a coarser one (called estopazo). “Os mangotes” are the wide and puffed sleeves of the shirt that are attached to the body of the shirt with a cross-stitch embroidery based on navy blue and orange-brown colors, this embroidery work is called “as guides”. The cuffs of the shirt have a small pleating and a zig-zag stitch work in cordoncillo (bullion embroidery), these cuffs are fastened with knotted buttons (de hiladura). The Ansó neckline is a box neckline, with a gathered line and a partial opening in the center of the front that can be closed with cords (cordetas or cordiellos) passed through eyelets with a fringe (tufa) hanging down. A noteworthy element is the large pleated collar, which is known in the locality as “gorguera”, although this is not a correct denomination from the terminological point of view of the study of clothing. The process of pleating and starching of the collar in Ansó is an art form. It is one of the most elegant elements of the female costume of and a sign of its antiquity. The pleated and starched collars, or lechuguillas, were widespread in Spain since the late sixteenth century. The “gorguera” forms a very high collar, about 10 cm, starched and fan-shaped. Once starched and dried in the correct way, the ruff is arched backwards in a convex shape. The ruff is attached to the shirt by a work called “l’achipren‘ and is topped by a bobbin lace or ornament called “randa” that breaks at the nape of the neck with a small opening called “o portillo“. The shirts worn on festive days, like this one, were made of a finer linen. The sleeves of the shirt were protected and puffed up thanks to the action of another independent piece, “as mangas“, which partially covered the arms and were generally made of dark blue cloth.
DIMENSIONS: Perimeter: 153cm. Length: 105 cm
MATERIAL: Linen
TECHNIQUE: taffeta weave, bobbin lace, ruffling, needle embroidery, starching and pleating.
DATATION: 19th Century.
PLACE OF PROVENANCE: Ansó, Jacetania Region (Huesca – Spain).
Details gallery
Front
Back
Shoulder detail
Ruff collar detail
Cuff detail
Folded
All the details
ANSÓ – Silk Ribbon (“a trenzadera”)
NAME: Silk Ribbon ("a trenzadera") DESCRIPTION: this ribbon is called "trenzadera", and it is used to wrap the churros with the woman's natural hair, giving rise to the classic "churros hairstyle" of the Ansó Region. The color of the braid also had its meaning. Young...
ANSÓ – Churros
NAME: Churros (‘os churros’) DESCRIPTION:Pair of black female churros (hairpiece) used for the classic "churros hairstyle" of the women of Ansó. The "churros hairstyle" owes its name to this element, it is a hairpiece that is attached to the hair by winding it with...
ANSÓ – Shoes
NAME: Shoes DESCRIPTION: Pair of women's flat shoes in black leather, with tongue, laces and rounded toe cap. The buckle features a series of eyelets with black crisscrossed cotton laces that tie the shoes. The sole is leather, attached to a rubber heel. It's the most...
ANSÓ – Petticoat (as inaguas)
NAME: Petticoat (as inaguas) DESCRIPTION: This petticoat is a garment to be worn under the skirt. Made in cotton with striped print in different shades of blue, red and dark grey. The skirt is attached to the waist by a small gathering. It has two black cotton braids...
ANSÓ – Scapular
NAME: scapular DESCRIPTION: the scapular is part of the adornments worn by women, it is a protective element. It is also worn by girls when they wear the saigüelo colorau (red smock) and in the past it was even hung on cradles to protect children. It consists of two...
ANSÓ – Earrings
NAME: Earrings DESCRIPTION: Pair of female girandole earrings in gilded metal. They are composed of five bodies and are articulated as follows: button at the top (where the attachment hook to the earlobe begins), a bow as the central part from which three almonds or...
ANSÓ – Sofocante
NAME: Sofocante (Choker) DESCRIPTION:The sofocante is one of the most eye-catching and elegant jewels of the women's clothing from Ansó. It is a silver or copper jewel, generally over-gilded, that hangs from the neck with a red silk or velvet ribbon as a choker. The...
ANSÓ – Reliquary
NAME: Reliquary DESCRIPTION: This type of medallion is called "relicarios" (reliquary), although they do not contain any kind of relic inside. It is placed in the center of the cockade as a breast rose along with the other "platas".This reliquary, in particular, is...
ANSÓ – Crucifix
NAME: crucifix DESCRIPTION:A large crucifix (13.5 cm high) made of silver openwork filigree. This piece is placed in the center of the cockade and is part of the set of jewels and adornments called "as platas".The arms of the cross are topped with gilled balls formed...
ANSÓ – Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar
NAME: Figures of the Virgin of the Pilar DESCRIPTION: These are two small sculptures of the Virgin of the Pilar as a pendant but larger than a normal pendant (12 cm high and 4 cm wide) to be placed on both sides of the "escarapela" (cockade). Both are twins and of...
ANSÓ – Chain
NAME: chain DESCRIPTION: feminine chain of 2 meters long in golden metal. It has open links in the shape of a folded eight in the center. These links, when joined together, give the chain a triangular shape. The jewels ("as platas") of the rosette, for security and to...
ANSÓ – Escarapela
NAME: Escarapela (Cockade) with "as platas": Virgin of The Pilar (x2), reliquary and crucifix (joined by a chain) DESCRIPTION:the "escarapela" is the ornamental element of circular or rosette shape that is placed on the chest, it is composed of numerous silk ribbons...
ANSÓ – Sleeves
NAME: “As mangas” (oversleeves) y la cinta (ribbon). DESCRIPTION: We are faced with two independent pieces, on the one hand "As mangas" (oversleeve) and, on the other, the silk ribbon. The ones we see here are elegant pieces designed for the festive dress. As the...
ANSÓ – Basquiña
NAME: Basquiña DESCRIPTION: basquiña smock in black and green wool cloth, with a small tight-fitting body, cut at the bottom of the chest and edged in yellow and red. The word basquiña designates a skirt in historical clothing; however, the Pyrenean villages of Hecho...