Tura – Wrinkled underskirt, hemmed

NAME: Wrinkled underskirt, hemmed

DESCRIPTION: The garment is made of blue-yellow-grey striped printed cotton linen without any tailoring, with a single long edge. First, the spread fabric was finely pleated except at the front, then the pleats and smoother front were fastened into a waistband.

The bottom was covered with thicker red post. Its outwardly curling surface was achieved by sewing together every sixth fold in the wetted crease and smoothing out the tiny creases here, then breaking in larger creases from the 1950s. After drying, the work was fixed enough that the man could be removed.
The centre of the front of the petticoat was slit. It was attached to the waist using safety pins, sliding it slightly over to give the bottom a flared A-line.

In Hungarian peasant dress, the use of many petticoats began to spread slowly from the 1830s onwards, influenced by Biedermeier fashion. This change occurred in Tura around 1910, when two girls who had gone to work in a nearby town for the season returned to the village wearing many skirts. They also introduced the fashion of sewing skirts with post. From the 1920s onwards, 1-2 petticoats were worn less and slightly shorter. The local taste was for striped patterned fabrics, of which up to 5 or 6 metres were used for a single thickly pleated baggy example. The slight shortening of the skirt length allowed it to be made from a single long edge, rather than the more common solution of several edges of fabric sewn together.

The front was left smoother to give the ideal of a flat stomach.

  • Material: cotton canvas and poster fabric
  • Technique: hand pleated, machine sewn and hand sewn
  • Accessory: safety pin
  • Age: mid-20th century

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